Trip to Arequipa from Palpa by Way of Nazca

While the experience of finding and soaking up the energy of the ancient Solar Clock in Palpa was exhilarating, it lasted until the sun went down, which meant the conclusion of walking around and the return back to the hostel.

The following day was Monday, so I went out to town in hopes the only tour office I have come across would be open, so that I can find out about the options to take a tour to other sites where Palpa geoglyphs can be found. Unfortunately, the office was as closed and deserted as it was on Sunday.

Everybody I asked told me that because Palpa gets few tourists who come to stay in one its few hostels, the tours to Palpa are organized by agencies with offices in Nazca. Nevertheless, Nazca tour agencies mostly receive tourists looking to see the popular Nazca lines, so the less popular Palpa lines, while on offer, only see limited interest.

Being almost an hour away, returning to Nazca so I can take the tour which would bring me back to Palpa, and would thus cost a lot just to cover the time and gasoline spent for the hour long trip each way seemed counterproductive, so I made the executive decision to wrap it up in Palpa.

Photo: Plaza de Armas in Nazca Has Lawn Decorated with Copies of Geoglyphs
Photo: Plaza de Armas in Nazca Has Lawn Decorated with Copies of Geoglyphs

I took the 4 Soles local bus back to Nazca, where I booked an overnight bus trip to Arequipa. The bus with Palomino was leaving at 10pm, and was scheduled to arrive in Arequipa at 8am the following morning. The cost was 70 Soles for the seat on the upper deck. The lower deck, where the bathroom was located, had fewer seats that cost 90 Soles each. I got me one upstairs.

I had a few hours to kill in Nazca before the ride, so I wandered round the streets of the town, checked out a few shops, bought some crude minerals from a man with a lot of knowledge man about their properties, and had dinner in one of the restaurants.

The Palomino bus was however delayed by almost an hour. Once I got on my seat, I realized it’s gonna be a tough ride because next to me was an overly obese man, whose monstrous fat folds overlapped deep into my seat. He was also the only snorer on the upper deck. Whereas almost everybody else was quiet the whole night, except of course a privileged single mother who spent the first hour and a half talking exceedingly loud on her phone, had this slob of fat not been on the bus, it would have been a pleasant ride. Because of him, however, not only was the ride very uncomfortable in how restricted I was the whole time, but he also made any decent attempt at unwinding impossible with his sloppy snoring.

Nevertheless, even though sleep deprived and super antsy, I did arrive in Arequipa the following day, where the cloudless sky with beautiful sun and gorgeous mountain peaks towering over the city quickly cheered me up.

Photo: Misti Mountain Towering Over Arequipa
Photo: Misti Mountain Towering Over Arequipa

Solar Clock Geoglyph of Palpa

Even though unmarked, I found the way to the Mirador (viewpoint) in “la zona de Sacramento”, located a little over 1 km from the city of Palpa. There was a path that lead me up parched hill with no vegetation and cracked rocks from blasting sun that bakes them with intense force and hardly any clouds to shade them.

The dusty way up leads around the hill and at first offers no indication of the surprise that awaits a hiker. But once up on the ridge, you get treated to the magnificent view of an enigmatic geoglyph known locally as Reloj Solar (Solar Clock).

Photo: Aerial View of Solar Clock Geoglyph in Palpa
Photo: Aerial View of Solar Clock Geoglyph in Palpa

According to what I found out, based on how a shadow falls onto the lines that represent the Solar Clock at the time of the equinox, would determine whether the harvest in the coming year will be good or bad.

The Ministry of Culture (Mincul) of Peru has found out that on the slopes and plateaus surrounding Palpa, there are at least a thousand pre-Hispanic geoglyphs that were designed centuries before the emblematic Nazca Lines.

Photo: Adding My Rock to Pile at Mirador - Solar Clock in Background
Photo: Adding My Rock to Pile at Mirador – Solar Clock in Background

The Ministry of Culture maintains that Palpa’s geoglyphs were made by the Paracas and Topará cultures, between 400 AC and the beginning of our era.

Photo: I Placed Camera Against Rock and Set Timer to 5 Seconds
Photo: I Placed Camera Against Rock and Set Timer to 5 Seconds

I walked up to the Mirador, which is a small structure that looks like an open bus stop, and snapped a few pictures of the Solar Clock and the nearby runways from there. The Mirador however is not on top of the hill, but rather just parts way up. I decided to walk all the way to the top.

Photo: View of Mirador and Geoglyphs from Top of Hill in Palpa
Photo: View of Mirador and Geoglyphs from Top of Hill in Palpa

From there I also got the view of the city of Palpa, as well as the Mirador itself. The cloudless sky that this area is notorious for provided for intense head-bake, so staying for an extended period of time was not too sound, plus it was getting later in the day, so I decided to descend.

Photo: City of Palpa As Seen from Hill Overlooking Solar Clock Geoglyph
Photo: City of Palpa As Seen from Hill Overlooking Solar Clock Geoglyph

I walked down to the crest where the lines composing the Solar Clock are, and stayed for a bit right beside them to soak up their energy. I then had a brief meditation at one of the runways, and started to make way back to Palpa.

Photo: Getting Really Close to Geoglyph of Solar Clock in Palpa
Photo: Getting Really Close to Geoglyph of Solar Clock in Palpa

The whole experience of discovering the geoglyph and being able to get close to it was electrifying. The awe-inspiring, intoxicating aura of the ancient energy lines has left me feeling uplifted and exalted. I will never forget that feeling.

Photo: Brief Meditation at Energy Runway in Palpa
Photo: Brief Meditation at Energy Runway in Palpa

Palpa – Where Geoglyphs Predate Nazca Lines

I have concluded my stay in Nazca with a tour that was a lot of fun, but also a lot of pain. But while there, I found out that in a town of Palpa, which is only about 60km from Nazca, there can also be found geoglyphs which actually predate those of Nazca by estimated 600 to 1,000 years. I had to make a trip to Palpa to check it out for myself.

Photo: Spiny Desert Vegetation I Found in Palpa and Nazca
Photo: Spiny Desert Vegetation I Found in Palpa and Nazca

The ride with PeruBus cost only 4 Soles, and whereas the buses for Ica, which pass through Palpa leave from Nazca every 30 minutes, it takes little effort to get to the little town.

In Palpa, I secured myself a room for 35 Soles, and went out to rehydrate and explore the town. It was weekend, so most businesses around the main square were closed, though there was enough activity along the Pan-American highway to buy fruits or grab a lunch.

Photo: Main Church of Palpa
Photo: Main Church of Palpa

The only tour operator I could find in the entire town was closed, so I decided to wander around on my own, hoping I would spot something interesting even without help. The girl who waited in a local restaurant where I grabbed a bite didn’t know a whole lot about the geoglyphs, but I found out that there is a “Mirador” in Palpa, from where it is possible to see something, though she could not tell me what it was. I decided to find the mirador in hopes it would lead me to some of the ancient images.

Photo: Large Geoglyph on Mountain Side in Palpa
Photo: Large Geoglyph on Mountain Side in Palpa

Unfortunately I kept getting weird stares from the locals when I asked about the lines, so I ended up walking up and down aimlessly until I finally got on the right track to the Mirador. It was however not anything like that in Nazca. The uphill walk there was however definitely worth it.