Angkor Thom

Preah Ntep

I bicycled through the South Gate entrance to Angkor Thom and rode my way across straight road lined on both sides with many trees and dozens of inquisitive monkeys. This was without doubt one of the busiest roads in Angkor Archaeological Park. Connecting two of the most iconic sites in the area – Angkor Wat and Bayon, the number of tuk tuks and buses with organized tours was overwhelming.

About a kilometre into Angkor Thom, I was approaching a T intersection that split the road I was on to wrap around Bayon temple, standing proudly right in the middle. At the south-west corner of the cross roads was a pagoda with statue of Buddha and many locals praying inside and preying (on tourists) outside. Bayon is the largest state temple at Angkor and I knew it will take a while to explore, so I decided to pull over and take a breather from frying sun in the shade of the pagoda. I asked the locals and was told that the pagoda is called Preah Ntep. Somebody spelled it out for me this way even though the pronunciation suggested that proper spelling would be Preah Entep.

Photo: Buddha Image in the Preah Ntep Pagoda

The pagoda was vastly insignificant and was one of many found within the Angkor Thom complex. Stopping for a breather obviously meant exposing myself to the relentless harassment of kids clearly sent to prey on tourists by their parents and instructed to say certain things to maximize chances of a score. I sought peace of mind but did not find it. I did get slight escape from the sun but touts forced me to quickly move on. Below are few pictures of Preah Ntep, a pagoda that doesn’t even exist on any map of Angkor Thom.

Photo: Child Touts Preying on Foreigners Outside of Preah Ntep Pagoda

Symbolism of Angkor Thom

When Jayavarman VII built Angkor Thom, he made sure it’s well fortified but physical fortification was only part of the city’s strenght. Angkor Thom was also built to be protected by divine powers. There is deep symbolism in much of Angkor Thom’s architecture – let’s take a look at its most significant features:

Similar to the symbolism of Angkor Wat, the world Angkor Thom represents is enclosed within the rock wall that’s 8 meters (26 feet) tall beyond which there is the great ocean symbolized by the surrounding moat. 54 deities and 54 demons guarding each entrance to Angkor Thom represent 108 protectors of the city – the sacred number linked to the Churning of the Ocean of Milk.

Photo: 54 Figures of Deities Guarding the South Gate to Angkor Thom

Nagas – multi-headed serpents held firmly by a row of 54 guardians on each side of the causeway leading to the gate across the moat represent serpent Vasuki from Hindu mythology. The serpents are ready to spit poison at the enemy out of each of their seven heads and have their tails erect to terminate all those who still make it through. With their seven heads, Nagas also serve as Khmer symbols of rainbow – the bridge between heaven and earth, between the world of the gods and the world of men.

To help keep watch over the city, Jayavarman VII crowned top of the city gates and the many towers of the state temple Bayon with faces of Lokeshvara. His compassionate, but attentive faces bearing the features of the king himself keep close watch over the city of Angkor Thom in all the directions.

Photo: Symbolism of Angkor Thom - Faces of Bayon Looking Over the Royal City

Angkor Thom was taken over by sacking Chams in 1177 but the immortal city of Yashodhara was reclaimed for Khmer people by king Jayavarman VII in 1181. The king then built the wall and moat around it the fortification and symbolism of which proved so solid, future Khmer kings stayed in the city and remodelled Bayon, instead of building their own royal cities and state temples.

Angkor Thom South Gate

Known as Yashodharapura, the South Gate of Angkor Thom is the nearest point of entry to the royal city of Angkor Thom from Angkor Wat (and Siem Reap). There are five entrance gates to Angkor Thom – one at each cardinal point and a Victory Gate, which is on the eastern wall and affords access to the royal palace area, but South Gate is hands down the most popular and the most congested. All of the Angkor Thom gates look virtually the same, but because South Gate is the point of entry for vast majority of visitors to Angkor Thom, this gate is the most complete thanks to extensive restoration works. Just as most tourists do, I started my Angkor adventure with Angkor Wat too (not realizing at the time that it was not a good idea), which had me enter Angkor Thom through South Gate.

The laterite causeway that crosses over the surrounding moat to approach the Angkor Thom South Gate is lined on both sides with a naga (multi-headed serpent) balustrade held in place by statues of Apsaras (gods) on the left, and statues of Asuras (demons) on the right striking a pose resembling the tug of war. These figures previously existed at each of the causeways leading to Angkor Thom but most have been stolen. South Gate is the only one that’s vastly complete. North Gate still has several full figures but other gates were stripped of most of them with only a few remaining. Many of the missing heads along the causeway approaching South Gate have been restored with new ones, while a couple were still missing, waiting to be restored (at the time of my visit). There are 54 figures on each side of the causeway.

Photo: Restored Head of Apsara Figure That was Previously Stolen

The gates themselves, which reach as high as 23 meters (75 feet) are surmounted by a structure with four faces each facing its own cardinal point. This symbolism is seen on many temples built by Jayavarman VII, including Angkor Thom’s state temple Bayon and Banteay Kdei which is on the eastern side of the small circuit. The faces represent the likeness of bodhisattva Lokeshvara, the deity with whom god-king Jayavarman VII identified.

Photo: Head of Apsara Divinity at Angkor Thom South Gate

Base of the South Gate tower is decorated on both sides by a three-headed elephant plucking lotus flowers. The trunks of an elephant form three pillars and are believed to represent Airavata, the mount of Indra. God Indra is the god of the sky and the king of the gods. His presence at each of the gates leading to Angkor Thom reinforces the idea that naga balustrades lining the approach to each of the gates were built to represent a rainbow – in Khmer mythology, rainbows are believed to link the world of men with the world of the gods.

Photo: Head of Naga Whose Body is Held by Asuras in a Tug of War Pose Alongside Causeway Leading to Angkor Thom South Gate

If Angkor Thom was built as a representation of Mount Meru with the moat serving as the sea of milk that surrounds it, then naga balustrades would represent rainbows connecting the world inside of the temple (world of the gods) with the world outside of it (world of men). I was coming from the outside, entering Angkor Thom, world of the gods through the South Gate. I was drenched in sweat, worn out by the heat, but excited to explore the largest Angkor compound still standing.

Angkor Thom means “Great City” in Khmer language. Covering the area of 9 kilometres squared, the royal city of Angkor Thom was the last capital of the Angkorian Empire. Completely surrounded by wall and moat that’s almost 3 kilometres long on each side, there are five entrance gates to the royal city – one at each cardinal point and the Victory Gate which connected the east side with the Royal Palace. Each of the Angkor Thom gates is crowned with four giant faces, similar to those found on Bayon temple.

Angkor Thom as we know today was constructed over the site of earlier temples and was occupied by city people for five centuries. It was brought to its final glory by King Jayavarman VII though construction of Angkor Thom continued to certain degree after his death.

The remodelling to Angkor Thom to its current state started after King Jayavarman VII drove away Chams who sacked the city. The King remodelled what was left of Angkor Thom into an ensemble that represents the Mount Meru with Bayon in its centre and the moat around it representing the sea of milk that encircles the sacred mountain range. It’s a microcosm of the universe.

Archaeologists speculate that during its boom, Angkor Thom had a water system running through the city. River O Khlot may have been branched and have some of its flow diverted to supply the royal city with life supporting water.

King Jayavarman VII also built temples at each corner of Angkor Thom. These temples, known as Prasat Chrung (Shrine of the Angle) contain an architectural element called “stele” which is an upright slab with inscriptions. The south-eastern Prasat Chrung is the only one with a stele containing complete inscription in Sanskrit on all four sides of the slab. Prasat Chrung temples were dedicated to the Bodhisattva Lokesvara, same as Bayon which served as city’s state temple.

Photo: Bayon, State Temple of Angkor Thom

Parts of today’s Angkor Thom, the last capital of Angkorian Empire overlap the area of what used to be Yasodharapura – the first capital of Angkorian Empire (9th century). Temples of Baphuon and Phimeanakas which still exist within today’s Angkor Thom were built in previous centuries and were incorporated into the new layout of Angkor Thom by Jayavarman VII.

Following the tradition, the royal palace was built north of the state temple (in this case it was Bayon). There is nothing left of the royal palace but the courtyard and terraces, as dwellings of people, including royalty were built of wood. Stone dwellings were reserved exclusively for the gods.

Angkor Wat Elephants

At the beginning of the 20th century, when Angkor Wat was just re-discovered and became a popular tourist destination for wealthy Europeans, riding the elephants was the popular way to explore the temples. Improved infrastructure which allowed for the use of motorcycles as well as the pressure from international animal rights groups resulted in elimination of use of elephants at Angkor. These majestic animals were once again reintroduced in recent years and became available for hire by tourists wishing to experience the traditional means of transportation.

Photo: Elephant Ride at South Gate of Angkor Thom, Leaving Bayon Temple

Rumor has it that Angkor Village, the resort group which owns and operates the elephant farm at Angkor looks after their animals well. I have never had a chance to verify the accuracy of these claims but Cambodia is a major scam operation so it’s hard to believe anything you hear. This is in no way to imply that Angkor Village could be mistreating the elephants, though. If they really treat them with respect and dignity, then hats off to them – there are not many ethical businesses in Cambodia so if some, despite difficulties exist, then I must express my utmost respect. And I truly hope, for the sake of the elephants, that Angkor Village is the way they say it is.

As for me – I do not support abuse of animals for entertainment by humans no matter what. I believe in freedom of choice by all living creatures. Animals, such as elephants who are kept prisoners – regardless of whether they are happy there or not – for the sake of generating money for their captors don’t have the choice, in my mind to go and be free. As such, I would never consider hiring an elephant to ride through Angkor as it only supports this type of business and ensures that more elephants will be (ab)used to do what they are told, not what they would like so their captors financially benefit from it.

I saw the elephants at the Southern Gate to Angkor Thom and understand that they can be hired for a ride from Angkor Thom to Bayon for $10. In the evening, elephants are available to take people up on top of Phnom Bakheng which is a popular spot for sunsets. This ordeal costs $15. Those willing to shell out $50 could get a ride on an elephant and spend half a day with them which would include bathing the elephant and learning how to command them. Again, I see it as torturous experience whereas the elephant is turned into an obedient puppet on a string for entertainment of people with money.

There are countless videos on the internet of captive elephants flipping and goring their owners (or whoever was the closest). These things need to start happening more often. I sympathize with the elephants and believe they have the right to stand up for themselves. There is only so much abuse you can take before the cup of patience overflows. Live and let live is the only way to be.

Angkor Archaeological Park

All of those magnificent, world famous temples of the the Angkorian-era Khmer Empire that drive millions of tourists to Cambodia each year are housed within the Angkor Archaeological Park. Covering an area of more than 400 square kilometers, Angkor Archaeological Park is the largest religious complex in the world. Today, Angkor Archaeological Park is considered to be one of the New 7 Wonders of the World and was declared a World Heritage site by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization’s International World Heritage Program UNESCO in 1992.

Angkorian-era of the Khmer Empire lasted between 9th and 13th centuries during which most of the famous tamples of the Angkor Archaeological Park were built. Some of the temples date back to the 8th century while the latest additions come from the 1500s.

The most famous temple of the Angkor Archaeological Park is, expectedly Angkor Wat with Bayon Temple located within larger Angkor Thom counting as close second. The complete list of all 53 temple ruins located within Angkor Archaeological Park in Siem Reap Province of Cambodia is below:

Ak Yum
Angkor Thom
Angkor Wat
Bakong
Baksei Chamkrong
Banteay Kdei
Banteay Prei
Banteay Samre
Banteay Srey
Baphuon
Bat Chum
Bayon
Beng Melea
Chapel of the Hospital
Chau Say Tevoda
East Mebon
Kbal Spean
Kleangs (North and South)
Krol Ko
Krol Romeas
Kutisvara
Lolei
Neak Pean
Phimeanakas
Phnom Bakheng
Phnom Krom
Phnom Kulen
Prasat Bei
Prasat Kravan
Prasat Prei
Prasat Suor Prat
Prasat Top (East)
Prasat Top (West)
Pre Rup
Preah Khan
Preah Ko
Preah Palilay
Preah Pithu Group
Roluos Group
Spean Thma
Srah Srang
Ta Keo
Ta Nei
Ta Prohm
Ta Prohm Kel
Ta Som
Tep Pranam
Terrace of the Elephants
Terrace of the Leper King
Thma Bay Kaek
Thommanon
Wat Athvea
West Mebon

The entire Angkor Archaeological Park is located in Siem Reap Province with the town of Siem Reap serving its main tourist and business hub.

Additional pre-Angkorian and Angkorian-era temple ruins are located Takeo Province, south of Cambodia’s capital city of Phnom Penh. From historical and archaeological perspective, the temples in Takeo Province are some of the most important, however their visual appeal and magnificance don’t match up to the temples of Angkor Archaeological Park.