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Night Lizards

As I was walking the hallway of the Two Dragons guesthouse trying to locate where the buzz that prevented me from sleeping was coming from, I noticed small lizards on the ceiling. It was something I have not seen before. Clearly nocturnal creatures, these night lizards (name I have given them) like sticking to the walls and other surfaces close to sources of light. Their amazing ability to stick to any surface and move smoothly along it was astounding. The night lizards were like flies, except that they couldn’t fly and were much bigger and heavier.

Small Gecko aka Night Lizard on the Ceiling of Two Dragons Guesthouse
Small Gecko aka Night Lizard on the Ceiling of Two Dragons Guesthouse

I could understand flies and their ability to sit head down on the ceiling, but these were lizards. There surely is more weight involved and no wings. I could not wrap my head around it so I just admired. Their movement is really cute – they just swing their bodies left and right as they knit swiftly with their legs. Very smooth, very elegant and most of all impressive in their ability to walk on the ceilings.

I have noticed those night lizards all over the place afterwards. They are as ubiquitous as Tuk Tuk drivers and prominent at night. You can find them sitting on the walls and signs where there is light. They also quite obviously change body color to adapt to their surroundings – quite possibly an ability to protect themselves from predators (night birds?). When they sit on a white plastic signs, they are entirely white, when they are on a wooden plate, they would turn darker to blend in and similarly, whatever the colors of the surface, their skin would change accordingly.

Night Lizards Have Amazing Ability to Stick to Any Surface and Hunt Flies Close to Light Sources
Night Lizards Have Amazing Ability to Stick to Any Surface and Hunt Flies Close to Light Sources

The night lizards are a bit tricky to take a picture of as it’s always very dark when you see them and they are rather tiny – ranging in size from one to four inches (at least most of them do). The movement is something I can’t capture on still camera, but it’s really cute. Their body wiggles to the sides and they are rather swift. Also a bit shy so when you get a bit close, they would move away. I’ve seen them also playing – one chasing another in circles. They are really nothing unusual and if you ever come to Cambodia, you will stumble across dozens on your first walk outside after dark.

When I asked locals about these night lizards, I found them all referring to them as “geckos”. Perhaps they are geckos. I’m just used to seeing geckos that are much larger, but it doesn’t mean that these little creatures don’t grow rather large at one point. It’s really relaxing watching them during sleepless nights. They are very swift in their movements and able to capture flies in their mouth. The reason why they stay close to sources of light is because that’s where tiny night flies gather which creates profound source of food for these geckos. Smaller ones only eat fruit flies, but larger ones also go for mosquitoes and each creature that eliminates mosquitoes is my friend.

You Can Find Night Lizards All Over Any Illuminated Sign in Cambodia
You Can Find Night Lizards All Over Any Illuminated Sign in Cambodia

Irritating Buzz at Two Dragons Guesthouse

My first day in Siem Reap has been eventful and fulfilling day. I did not get much sleep the previous night, but I didn’t feel that tired. I was really happy things were working out for me and I got to teach Cambodians English on my first day in Cambodia. My supper at Home Cocktail Restaurant was delicious and since I was already far away from night life in Siem Reap and close to Two Dragons guesthouse where I was staying, I headed straight to my room to perhaps catch up with some sleep.

I felt rather disgusting as it’s really hot and humid in Cambodia so I was sweating whole day nonstop. I stank and my feet were dirty from walking in the dust wearing sandals whole day. Shower would feel like a life saver and so it did, but I was so tired I just fell in the bed and lay there motionless for a few hours, contemplating the need to take shower, but struggling to find strength to lift up and walk to the washroom. The room was hot but provided air-conditioning fixed it all up within minutes. General lack of sleep from previous night and long day travelling prior started to show eventually and I felt really tired, ready to crash.

It got dark fast and everything in Two Dragons fell quiet. It was night hour. I went to take my shower at last and feeling clean, I lay in my bed ready to get some sleep. To my most unpleasant surprise, there was this extremely loud, irritating buzz shaking my room. It was brutal. I’d be sitting on my bed and all I hear is this horrible buzz. It felt as if I was sleeping inside a giant power station where buzz from ultra high voltage is deafening. The buzz of Two Dragons was no less of an ear tearing experience.

I switched off the air-conditioning, switched off all the lights, made sure no water tap is open but the buzz was persistent and appeared not related to anything in the room. Headache from the noise was getting more severe and I have quickly come to realize that I won’t be able to fall asleep in such painful conditions.

I was surprised I did not hear any commotion outside. I’d think someone would already complain or the management would notice and try to resolve it. But everything was quiet and everyone seemingly asleep already. I opened the door and walked out on the hallway to learn that the buzz is present there as well. There was no particular place it was coming from, it was just there. Extremely loud and omnipresent.

I walked up and down the hallway and noticed the buzz was much stronger at the southern end of the building, where my and most other rooms were located. Northern end where balcony and coffee table were was still getting the buzz, but the intensity was a bit lower. It’s hot outside even at night in Cambodia and if it wasn’t for mosquitoes who love my blood, I would crash on the balcony floor to avoid getting my head burst from that horrible buzzing.

Since there were no signs of life anywhere in the building, I opened my suitcase and dug out the earplugs. I could not believe I was sleeping in a $12 a night establishment and was forced to use earplugs to sleep. Everything about Two Dragons seemed to go downhill and I started to regret my decision to book stay here for a week. Wearing earplugs all night long provides breading grounds for bacteria in your ears and feels uncomfortable. I hated having to do that and could not wait for the morning.

Traffic Rules of Cambodia – Bigger Gets Right of Way

The moment you step on Cambodian roads you will notice the most prevalent traffic rule of all – Bigger Gets Right of Way. Other than this master rule, there are hardly any other rules in effect. If driving anarchy exists, it resides in Cambodia. There are no rules, only something vaguely resembling guidelines that nobody cares about. As a result, driving in Cambodia is as chaotic as education – nobody cares about doing it right, they simply slalom around to get by.

Going for a walk in Cambodia is a life threatening experience. You get used to it quickly, but until such time, you will be shocked over immense rudeness and disrespect shown by the drivers. Nobody will care about a pedestrian being part of traffic. Nobody will attempt to slow down to avoid hitting you. As pedestrian you are simply smaller than a vehicle and bigger gets right of way. Jump out of the way if you can. Your life is in stake so you better, afterall.

It’s still shocking how there is no attempt, no intention of any sort, not even as much as slowing down or trying to steer away – bigger will simply continue going straight regardless of obstacle or who by law has the right of way. That includes automobiles joining traffic from sidelines. They only look in the mirror to make sure nothing bigger than themselves is coming their way, then they will simply continue forcing their way into the lane. Everybody who is there already, including pedestrians on the side of the road better find the way to get out of the vehicle’s path if they wish to live.

There are places with pedestrian crossings (zebras) making it look like this should be the zone for pedestrians to cross the road. I’m not sure what exactly the purpose of it is and why they bothered painting those zebras on the road. Nobody, I mean absolutely no freaking body will bother to even slow down when you are waiting there trying to cross. It’s just tough luck. They are n a car or on a motorcycle – they are bigger then you, they get right of way. Because number of motorcycles on the roads is ridiculous, you will never find a blank spot in traffic so you will have to enter and dodge at your own risk until you have crossed.

But what do you think happens once you have entered the traffic? Do you think anyone on a motorcycle or in a car will try to avoid you to give you a slightest chance to get on the opposite side quickly since you are already on the road? Think again! Not even the slightest attempt to help you cross. They will continue going straight at chosen speed. No slowing down, no steering away – straight no matter what. If you want to live, find they way to dodge. They are bigger, they get right of way.

As if this was not enough, as if insanely rude drivers did not create dangerous enough roads, it gets worse than that. As I had mentioned above – nobody follows any rules. If it’s a one way street, don’t expect there will be no motorcycles coming from the opposite direction. If you are on the right side of the road (they drive on the right in Cambodia), don’t assume there will be no drivers driving in opposite direction (aka driving on the left, opposite all traffic). If you are on traffic lights and there is a green light for pedestrians (which is a cute, animated green figure that walks Michael Jackson style) don’t assume that vehicles on the red will stop or remain stopped. And most of all – don’t assume you are safe walking on a sidewalk. It’s actually even more dangerous because you don’t expect motorcycles come wizz beside you at high speeds.

Remembers, you could be cool, but to be Cambodian cool you need to break all the rules. Real Cambodian don’t stop on the red, real Cambodian doesn’t drive on the right, real Cambodian doesn’t give way. If you want to life, look after yourself. There is little to no law enforcement in Cambodia. This statement doubles for traffic. Everybody does whatever they want on the road and will take pride in showing everyone in a smaller vehicle that they rule more than you.

Cambodian Traffic Rule Hierarchy

  • Pedestrians – you will never get right of way no matter what. You are the only one who can save yourself from getting killed. Watch out!
  • Bicycles – you can safely endanger all pedestrians as they will have to jump of your way to save themselves from getting hit. You have to give way to motorcycles and car as they will show you with joy that you are smaller and they will not back down.
  • Scooters – most common means of transportation in Cambodia. You can safely ignore pedestrians and cyclists. You have to watch out for motorcycles and all cars, SUVs and trucks.
  • Motorcycles – only vehicles with more wheels than 2 get right of way. Everybody else must get off your way if they want to live
  • Tuk Tuks – even though they are basically scooters with trailer behind them which makes them excessively sluggish, they are four wheelers, hence bigger than two wheelers and get right of way
  • Cars – 80% of traffic participants will back off, because you are bigger. Vast majority of traffic vehicles in Cambodia are scooters and motorcycles. Mostly scooters. Bicycles are second most used, but not popular among those who must use them. Locals think it sucks not having a scooter.
  • SUVs – all cars and motorcycle/scooter based entourages will get out of your way. You are near untouchable on the road.
  • Trucks – among normal traffic, you rule the road. You do whatever the eff you want, you go in any direction, blend into traffic from anywhere and just plain and simple do whatever you want behind the wheel. Near everybody else is smaller, hence you win
  • Semi Trailers and Buses – you don’t watch out for anything, just go. You are the biggest shite on the road, everybody else sucks and can go eff themselves or get killed if they don’t like it. The road belongs to you.

Cambodian roads are extremely dangerous with virtually no traffic laws in effect. Hence the only one rule applies – the rule of the bigger. The bigger a vehicle you control, the more right of way you get. The smaller you are, the more you have to dodge. As a tourist, you will have to dodge.

Bait and Switch Scams in Cambodia

Cambodia is one big scam operation. Corruption runs rampant and class differences are apparent more than anywhere else. You see lots of very poor people, and then you see those who drive around on Lexus or better yet, S Class Mercedes cars. In order to survive, locals will try to pull any scam possible to get as much money out of every tourist as possible. As if high occurence of violent crime in Cambodia wasn’t enough, as a visitor you will also have to deal with theft, purse snatching and scam of all sorts.

As a tourist, you should always be aware of your surroundings and pay attention to what you are doing. Never take advice from locals. Find the best place for yourself. Locals will always and only recommend a place that pays them the most commission. This time I would like to point out one of very common scam practices frequently found in Cambodia – Bain and Switch Scam.

In areas frequented by tourists you will found various establishments, including restaurants, bars, clubs, pubs, etc. Most of those will be surrounded by competition (aka many establishments on the street) so each will try their best to get a tourist in. In order to do that, they will post large signs outside offering various deals that would appeal attractive to tourists.

For example when it comes to restaurants, they would have a large sign about some specials for particular meal. This could attract you inside, where those large signs are out of your view. Once inside, you will be handed a menu which has several pages of all sorts of meal, but you won’t find any of those specials from the sign outside there. Unless you have a photographic memory, you won’t know which ones those were anyway.

All staff and management will do their darn best to avoid bringing those specials up. Staff will likely play dumb, saying they don’t know anything about it or will play language barrier trick pretending they don’t understand what you are talking about. If you get the manager and insist on the special as advertised outside, you will have to go back out to look at the sign to tell them what it is you want.

Bait and Switch scam is very common in Cambodia and everyone will try to make you pay the most they can. I myself have been eating at Khmer Family Restaurant for weeks every day, yet they continuously try to charge me regular price, even though I’m there safely within the Happy Hour when special should apply. You’d think they’d already know that I knew their establishment backwards, yet they will always try to overcharge.

Don’t fall for the Bait and Switch scam. They like playing it because once you enter the establishment and start looking at their menu with regular prices in it, you will have a waiter standing right beside you which aside from making you feel uncomfortable, has a parallel purpose of making you feel like you have wasted all this waiter’s time while you were staring at the menu looking for specials you remember from the sign outside. This will make you feel obliged to bring at least some business for the establishment, even though you know you will never come back. That’s the way Cambodians think – they don’t care whether you as a customer will be back or not. They only care about getting as much out of each individual the first time.

It’s rather easy to not fall victim to Bait and Switch scam. Just pay attention to what you see and insist on what you should be getting and what price you should be paying. Bait and Switch works on many unsavvy tourists so it’s not going away anytime soon. I chose not to be one of those unsavvy travellers. Afterall, the less money I spend on scam, the more money I’ll have left for honest businesses.

UCare Pharmacy and Breathing Down Your Neck

It’s not only restaurants where you get a server breathing down your neck for duration of your stay as a patron. This vastly uncomfortable cultural phenomenon seems to be as omnipresent as the Tuk Tuk drivers. I went to UCare Pharmacy to take a look what they had for Athlete’s Foot ointments. UCare line of pharmacies is said to be the best in Cambodia, adhering to Western standards and selling approved and genuine health care products. Unlike many other pharmacies in Cambodia, UCare allegedly doesn’t sell fake pills which could cost you life. There have been countless cases of people getting scammed by paying for anti malarial pills and getting some fake substance that does nothing to cure this disease. Cambodia is notorious for that. UCare Pharmacy is said to be different and everything they sell is genuine.

I started to notice signs of possible Athlete’s Foot condition and thought of checking UCare out to see what they had for Athlete’s Feet. Even though UCare is more expensive than other pharmacies, they are the ones who are likely to carry this type of product and should I buy it, it would be an actual product, not some counterfeit crap.

There is UCare Pharmacy right on the opposite corner from Pub Street in Siem Reap, located directly on Sivatha Boulevard, which means it’s downtown and close to everything. So far so good, except from that “breathing down your neck” phenomenon which is so obvious throughout Cambodia. I walked in and was immediately approached by one of the girls who worked there. She asked me what I was there for and followed me around. Even though it’s pretty embarrassing to ask for it aloud, I told her I was looking for products to cure Athlete’s Foot with. Since she’s obviously never heard of this condition, she repeatedly asked what it was so I was forced to respond and repeatedly ask for Athlete’s Foot cure. It was getting more and more embarrassing by the minute.

Girl still had no clue what I was looking for, so she took me to a counter for prescription pills and went to a section where obvious prescription pills are. I told her that what I was looking for would not be there and insisted that I will take a look around their shop to see if I can spot it. To my dismay, both girl who followed me before as well as a girl who was behind the prescription counter followed me around. They were by my side on every step, “breathing down my neck” believing they are doing me a favour by being there to “answer” my questions. They were right next to me, following each and every of my steps. It was horrible.

Then when I eventually found a shelf with foot products, I crouched down to take a close look at what they had. Those two girls stood right by me overlooking my every move. At the end of the shelf I found one cream that was intended for Athlete’s Foot. I picked it up, rose up and started reading the label. Girls were there on each side standing right by me.

When you have a condition, the last thing you want is for everyone to know you have it. These girls made me feel that way. I missed good old Canadian style of shopping where everyone leaves you alone and when the time to pay comes, the cashier takes the item, scans it with cold face, puts it in the bag, takes you cash and lets you go. You don’t feel embarrassed even if it’s rather sensitive product you are buying. In Cambodia on the other hand, they follow you around, breathe down your neck until you feel every single one of your problem is publically known. It’s awful, but that’s the cultural thing that exists in this country. Ahhh well.

Unprofessional Approach of Waiters in Cambodian Restaurants

This was one of my biggest pet peeves about Cambodia right from the start. In most restaurants (translation – all restaurants, except from upscale, splurge style establishment for extremely rich), you will be breathed down your neck throughout your stay as a patron. I’m saying this without slight exaggeration. Cambodians take excessively wrong approach towards tourists in most instances and waiters in restaurants are no exception. I found it truly hard to accept from the beginning and still can’t get myself to feel easy about it, but I grew to accept it as necessary evil.

Awful Experience Placing Orders

This is what it looks like when you walk into a restaurant with intentions to get something to eat:

A waiter or waitress follows you to the table (or escorts you to it if she got to you before you could seat yourself), hands you the menu and stands there right above you staring at you as you browse through your menu. If you tell him/her that you will take a minute to choose, it will be ignored and the waiter will simply stand there, breathing down your neck, forcing you to make hasty decision just so you get rid of that uncomfortable feeling of having someone stand over you, staring at you while you’re trying to make a decision.

Awful Experience Eating

Once you have placed an order (9 out of 10 it will be a hasty order as you will feel pressure having someone breathe down your neck while you’re choosing), unless you are in an upscale establishment for extremely rich, you will be stared at from a distance. Your waiter will stand nearby with eyes fixed on you, staring you down nonstop. Occasionally, if it’s slow and there are few servers at the restaurant, they may engage at a conversation with each other giving you the room to breathe. But it is very common to have your server stand a few tables down facing you and looking at you non stop. You will feel their breath on you, you will have them within your peripheral vision which makes it really hard to cope with. But this is the way they do it in Cambodia.

Awful Experience Paying

Once you’re done eating and ask your waiter for a bill, you will be brought a little folder with your bill that lists the total for what you have consumed. I have never had any unexplained charges on my bill which is a very positive experience, however… your waiter will wait right there by your side, staring at you as you pull your wallet out, browse through the bills inside and pick what you wish to put inside a folder. The feeling of being pressured and having a person breathe down your neck is unbearable but again – this is the way they do it.

Cultural Differences in Dining Services

Apparently the reason why waiters at Cambodian restaurants put you as a patron through such unpleasant experience is because this is the way Khmer (Cambodians) like it. Khmer people want everything now so servers are always at the ready, never close by, but rather right there.

It is difficult to hold this against your waiters. They actually believe that they are doing you a favour and are providing you with exceptional service by being there for you at any given time. Unfortunately this belief is so deeply embedded that any attempt to try to explain that this makes guests uncomfortable is futile. You will be deemed a weirdo if you express your feelings and ask not to have anyone breathe down your back. Khmer people believe this is quality service. They do not realize that for us westerners this is rather rude and feels like you are not given the room to breathe.

You are likely to experience this type of treatment in one form or another. While Cambodians slowly grow to become a little better behaved, unintentional, yet ill treatment is very common. Unless you are staying in upscale establishment and eat in high class restaurants where western owners train their staff appropriately and maintain standards acceptable by westerners, expect to feel uncomfortable by having your waiter stare you down and breathe down your neck during your stay at their establishment.

Home Cocktail Restaurant in Siem Reap

Tired and worn out from exposure to heat I was not used to, I headed back to my room at Two Dragons. It’s been a while since I’ve had my breakfast at Khmer Family Restaurant and my stomach was becoming vocal about getting some more food so I went for walk within the vicinity of Two Dragons guesthouse to see where I could have supper. The Home Cocktail Restaurant is only 1 minute walk from Two Dragons, around the corner, directly on Wat Bo Road.

Rustic Look Adds Atmosphere to the Home Cocktail Restaurant
Rustic Look Adds Atmosphere to the Home Cocktail Restaurant

Since my first introduction to Cambodian food I’ve been using Khmer Family Restaurant as benchmark. While my happy day special which included food and Angkor Beer cost only $3, I decided to give the Home Cocktail Restaurant a try even though their set was listed in the menu at $4. But unlike Khmer Family Restaurant, $4 at Home Cocktail Restaurant also landed me with a starter (2 springrolls with spicy, yet tasty dip) and a desert (fried banana – so yummy).

While dining at Home Cocktail Restaurant I have noticed rather unpleasant way Khmer establishment treat their customers. A person who is serving you will be there, right behind your shoulder at all times. From their standpoint this means that they are always there, ready to serve you. However from your standpoint it looks extremely awful, makes you feel uncomfortable and pressured. This wasn’t an incident isolated to Home Cocktail Restaurant, it’s all over you place and bit by bit you will be taking it for granted, yet it always makes for a very unpleasant feeling. I will elaborate on this later.

Home Cocktail Restaurant Interior Features Character Furnishing
Home Cocktail Restaurant Interior Features Character Furnishing

It is necessary to point out that my server at Home Cocktail Restaurant was very courteous and professional at all times. Food was absolutely delicious from first bite at the springroll, through main course all the way to desert. I have subsequently visited Home Cocktail Restaurant several times while I was still housed at Two Dragons. That only lasted for one week so after I have moved out of there, it was also the end of me eating at Home Cocktail Restaurant.

It is an amazing restaurant which I would not hesitate to recommend. The decoration and overall feel of the restaurant is very rustic so aside from eating local food, you will also feel local from the outside. I really liked it there. One day I dined there during heavy rainfall and the only unpleasant thing were mosquitoes. The thatched rooftop covering the patio, bamboo chairs, wooden walls with large cart wheels made for pleasant stay while rain was ravaging just feet away from me. Home Cocktail Restaurant = great dining establishment.

Front End of the Home Cocktail Restaurant in Siem Reap
Front End of the Home Cocktail Restaurant in Siem Reap

Teaching English at Wat Preah Prom Rath

Yes, it was one of my intentions to dedicate my time to volunteering and yes, since I didn’t have much experience volunteering before, teaching English seemed like the easiest way to start. As I was talking to that young man, he mentioned that he studied English here at the Wat Preah Prom Rath temple. He said he was from a small village but moved to Siem Reap in order to get some education and perhaps a decent job. I highly approved of this thinking.

He said he didn’t have the money to pay for his own accommodation even though being local he could find a room for $30 a month, so he stayed at the pagoda sharing living space with monks. Classes at the Wat Preah Prom Rath are free and anyone can attend so he takes full advantage of it. Having come from Canada, he asked me if I would like to come to his class which started at 5pm – in about 30 minutes. You wouldn’t have to ask me twice. I could not say “YES” fast enough.

View of the Classroom from the Wat Preah Prom Rath Grounds
View of the Classroom from the Wat Preah Prom Rath Grounds

Before I knew it, I was in a class. Room was full of people who were giving away surprised looks, but the overall feel was that I was welcome. I tried to introduce myself but probably sounded a bit awkward. There were both monks and non monks among students. Before I could get down to anything, a teacher walked in.

The classroom had no doors and no windows, just holes in the wall. The building in which the lectures were held was old, walls on it were mouldy and paint was peeling off. It offered striking contrast to shiny gloss of the temples across the walkway from there.

This Small Building in Bad Condition Serves as English School at Wat Pream Prom Rath
This Small Building in Bad Condition Serves as English School at Wat Pream Prom Rath

The teacher was a monk who spoke great English. I’m guessing he spent some time in England as he bore accent affected by the British. I introduced myself to him, after which he introduced me to the class and told me he had a bit of a sore throat and asked me if I could lead the class on my own. I have picked up his TOEFL book, got to a page where they were and without any ado I got straight down to teaching.

It was amazing. The class was at first a bit reluctant but I poked a funny here and there which eased the mood and so the lecture went like on grease. I enjoyed it so much I could not believe when an hour went by and everyone started leaving to attend to their other duties. My first English class as a volunteer was awesome. Everything about it was awesome. I have enjoyed it thoroughly and could not wait for the following day to do the same thing over again. As I was suggested, they held the same class every day during the week between 5 and 6, except on weekend. This was Tuesday – my first day in Cambodia and I have already taught English. What an amazing start to my new life.

Wat Preah Prom Rath Temple in Siem Reap Photo Gallery

Photographing Wat Preah Prom Rath Temple Compound

Now that I somewhat knew the history of the Wat Preah Prom Rath temple and Reclining Buddha which lies within, I felt encouraged to enjoy the grounds of the temple and photograph surrounding decoration. Replica of the ship on which Preah Ang Chang-han Hoy was sailing when it was cut in half by a shark is outside along with statue of the monk carrying a bowl for food. Cannons from the times of warlord Dap Chhoun are out there too. Garden is nicely trimmed and maintained and lots of other, smaller items are randomly scattered around the Wat Preah Prom Rath temple.

Preah Ang Chang-han Hoy Replica Ship
Preah Ang Chang-han Hoy Replica Ship

One especially impressive part were the architectural monuments of (to me) unknown purpose. I had no idea what they were, but these were structures of various sizes which grow up high into a spike in a pyramid like fashion. They all bear Oriental, rather than Egyptian influence and are found throughout the temple grounds. One big one is right next to the temple, several smaller ones of various sizes and splendour are around it.

Large Monument at Temple Grounds of Unknown Purpose (for now)
Large Monument at Temple Grounds of Unknown Purpose (for now)

It was when I went to photograph this large piece when someone yelled at me: “What are you doing there?” – this scared the living poop out of me. Not literally, but I thought it would have been a question of time before I offend somebody by me presence at holy Buddhist ground. This momet as it seemed had just arrived.

I have half smiling, half sorry answered that I just wanted to take a picture and backed off of the monument. The boy who yelled at me give off wide beaming smile suggesting that he was just kidding
which made me feel a little easier, but still a bit tense as I truly didn’t know what is right and what is wrong at temple grounds.

I shut my camera down, put it in a bag and went to talk to him to hopefully explain that I didn’t mean no harm, I just didn’t know what the right thing to do was. It was unnecessary. He asked me where I was from and the conversation went from there. Turned out that photographing temple compounds is perfectly fine and as I have later learned, Khmer people are excessively tolerant of tourists, even if they offend their holy grounds. The debate with this young boy went on. Either way, I was soaked in sweat already and needed a break from the heat and this gave me good excuse. Putting the camera down and going to take a seat at one of many benches was a relief. Little did I know at the time that talking to this young man will lead me to the most exciting experience ever. I went to teach monks English at upcoming class right there at the Wat Preah Prom Rath temple.

View of the Wat Preah Prom Roth from the Walkway Around the Temple
View of the Wat Preah Prom Roth from the Walkway Around the Temple