UCare Pharmacy and Breathing Down Your Neck

It’s not only restaurants where you get a server breathing down your neck for duration of your stay as a patron. This vastly uncomfortable cultural phenomenon seems to be as omnipresent as the Tuk Tuk drivers. I went to UCare Pharmacy to take a look what they had for Athlete’s Foot ointments. UCare line of pharmacies is said to be the best in Cambodia, adhering to Western standards and selling approved and genuine health care products. Unlike many other pharmacies in Cambodia, UCare allegedly doesn’t sell fake pills which could cost you life. There have been countless cases of people getting scammed by paying for anti malarial pills and getting some fake substance that does nothing to cure this disease. Cambodia is notorious for that. UCare Pharmacy is said to be different and everything they sell is genuine.

I started to notice signs of possible Athlete’s Foot condition and thought of checking UCare out to see what they had for Athlete’s Feet. Even though UCare is more expensive than other pharmacies, they are the ones who are likely to carry this type of product and should I buy it, it would be an actual product, not some counterfeit crap.

There is UCare Pharmacy right on the opposite corner from Pub Street in Siem Reap, located directly on Sivatha Boulevard, which means it’s downtown and close to everything. So far so good, except from that “breathing down your neck” phenomenon which is so obvious throughout Cambodia. I walked in and was immediately approached by one of the girls who worked there. She asked me what I was there for and followed me around. Even though it’s pretty embarrassing to ask for it aloud, I told her I was looking for products to cure Athlete’s Foot with. Since she’s obviously never heard of this condition, she repeatedly asked what it was so I was forced to respond and repeatedly ask for Athlete’s Foot cure. It was getting more and more embarrassing by the minute.

Girl still had no clue what I was looking for, so she took me to a counter for prescription pills and went to a section where obvious prescription pills are. I told her that what I was looking for would not be there and insisted that I will take a look around their shop to see if I can spot it. To my dismay, both girl who followed me before as well as a girl who was behind the prescription counter followed me around. They were by my side on every step, “breathing down my neck” believing they are doing me a favour by being there to “answer” my questions. They were right next to me, following each and every of my steps. It was horrible.

Then when I eventually found a shelf with foot products, I crouched down to take a close look at what they had. Those two girls stood right by me overlooking my every move. At the end of the shelf I found one cream that was intended for Athlete’s Foot. I picked it up, rose up and started reading the label. Girls were there on each side standing right by me.

When you have a condition, the last thing you want is for everyone to know you have it. These girls made me feel that way. I missed good old Canadian style of shopping where everyone leaves you alone and when the time to pay comes, the cashier takes the item, scans it with cold face, puts it in the bag, takes you cash and lets you go. You don’t feel embarrassed even if it’s rather sensitive product you are buying. In Cambodia on the other hand, they follow you around, breathe down your neck until you feel every single one of your problem is publically known. It’s awful, but that’s the cultural thing that exists in this country. Ahhh well.

Unprofessional Approach of Waiters in Cambodian Restaurants

This was one of my biggest pet peeves about Cambodia right from the start. In most restaurants (translation – all restaurants, except from upscale, splurge style establishment for extremely rich), you will be breathed down your neck throughout your stay as a patron. I’m saying this without slight exaggeration. Cambodians take excessively wrong approach towards tourists in most instances and waiters in restaurants are no exception. I found it truly hard to accept from the beginning and still can’t get myself to feel easy about it, but I grew to accept it as necessary evil.

Awful Experience Placing Orders

This is what it looks like when you walk into a restaurant with intentions to get something to eat:

A waiter or waitress follows you to the table (or escorts you to it if she got to you before you could seat yourself), hands you the menu and stands there right above you staring at you as you browse through your menu. If you tell him/her that you will take a minute to choose, it will be ignored and the waiter will simply stand there, breathing down your neck, forcing you to make hasty decision just so you get rid of that uncomfortable feeling of having someone stand over you, staring at you while you’re trying to make a decision.

Awful Experience Eating

Once you have placed an order (9 out of 10 it will be a hasty order as you will feel pressure having someone breathe down your neck while you’re choosing), unless you are in an upscale establishment for extremely rich, you will be stared at from a distance. Your waiter will stand nearby with eyes fixed on you, staring you down nonstop. Occasionally, if it’s slow and there are few servers at the restaurant, they may engage at a conversation with each other giving you the room to breathe. But it is very common to have your server stand a few tables down facing you and looking at you non stop. You will feel their breath on you, you will have them within your peripheral vision which makes it really hard to cope with. But this is the way they do it in Cambodia.

Awful Experience Paying

Once you’re done eating and ask your waiter for a bill, you will be brought a little folder with your bill that lists the total for what you have consumed. I have never had any unexplained charges on my bill which is a very positive experience, however… your waiter will wait right there by your side, staring at you as you pull your wallet out, browse through the bills inside and pick what you wish to put inside a folder. The feeling of being pressured and having a person breathe down your neck is unbearable but again – this is the way they do it.

Cultural Differences in Dining Services

Apparently the reason why waiters at Cambodian restaurants put you as a patron through such unpleasant experience is because this is the way Khmer (Cambodians) like it. Khmer people want everything now so servers are always at the ready, never close by, but rather right there.

It is difficult to hold this against your waiters. They actually believe that they are doing you a favour and are providing you with exceptional service by being there for you at any given time. Unfortunately this belief is so deeply embedded that any attempt to try to explain that this makes guests uncomfortable is futile. You will be deemed a weirdo if you express your feelings and ask not to have anyone breathe down your back. Khmer people believe this is quality service. They do not realize that for us westerners this is rather rude and feels like you are not given the room to breathe.

You are likely to experience this type of treatment in one form or another. While Cambodians slowly grow to become a little better behaved, unintentional, yet ill treatment is very common. Unless you are staying in upscale establishment and eat in high class restaurants where western owners train their staff appropriately and maintain standards acceptable by westerners, expect to feel uncomfortable by having your waiter stare you down and breathe down your neck during your stay at their establishment.

Home Cocktail Restaurant in Siem Reap

Tired and worn out from exposure to heat I was not used to, I headed back to my room at Two Dragons. It’s been a while since I’ve had my breakfast at Khmer Family Restaurant and my stomach was becoming vocal about getting some more food so I went for walk within the vicinity of Two Dragons guesthouse to see where I could have supper. The Home Cocktail Restaurant is only 1 minute walk from Two Dragons, around the corner, directly on Wat Bo Road.

Rustic Look Adds Atmosphere to the Home Cocktail Restaurant
Rustic Look Adds Atmosphere to the Home Cocktail Restaurant

Since my first introduction to Cambodian food I’ve been using Khmer Family Restaurant as benchmark. While my happy day special which included food and Angkor Beer cost only $3, I decided to give the Home Cocktail Restaurant a try even though their set was listed in the menu at $4. But unlike Khmer Family Restaurant, $4 at Home Cocktail Restaurant also landed me with a starter (2 springrolls with spicy, yet tasty dip) and a desert (fried banana – so yummy).

While dining at Home Cocktail Restaurant I have noticed rather unpleasant way Khmer establishment treat their customers. A person who is serving you will be there, right behind your shoulder at all times. From their standpoint this means that they are always there, ready to serve you. However from your standpoint it looks extremely awful, makes you feel uncomfortable and pressured. This wasn’t an incident isolated to Home Cocktail Restaurant, it’s all over you place and bit by bit you will be taking it for granted, yet it always makes for a very unpleasant feeling. I will elaborate on this later.

Home Cocktail Restaurant Interior Features Character Furnishing
Home Cocktail Restaurant Interior Features Character Furnishing

It is necessary to point out that my server at Home Cocktail Restaurant was very courteous and professional at all times. Food was absolutely delicious from first bite at the springroll, through main course all the way to desert. I have subsequently visited Home Cocktail Restaurant several times while I was still housed at Two Dragons. That only lasted for one week so after I have moved out of there, it was also the end of me eating at Home Cocktail Restaurant.

It is an amazing restaurant which I would not hesitate to recommend. The decoration and overall feel of the restaurant is very rustic so aside from eating local food, you will also feel local from the outside. I really liked it there. One day I dined there during heavy rainfall and the only unpleasant thing were mosquitoes. The thatched rooftop covering the patio, bamboo chairs, wooden walls with large cart wheels made for pleasant stay while rain was ravaging just feet away from me. Home Cocktail Restaurant = great dining establishment.

Front End of the Home Cocktail Restaurant in Siem Reap
Front End of the Home Cocktail Restaurant in Siem Reap

Teaching English at Wat Preah Prom Rath

Yes, it was one of my intentions to dedicate my time to volunteering and yes, since I didn’t have much experience volunteering before, teaching English seemed like the easiest way to start. As I was talking to that young man, he mentioned that he studied English here at the Wat Preah Prom Rath temple. He said he was from a small village but moved to Siem Reap in order to get some education and perhaps a decent job. I highly approved of this thinking.

He said he didn’t have the money to pay for his own accommodation even though being local he could find a room for $30 a month, so he stayed at the pagoda sharing living space with monks. Classes at the Wat Preah Prom Rath are free and anyone can attend so he takes full advantage of it. Having come from Canada, he asked me if I would like to come to his class which started at 5pm – in about 30 minutes. You wouldn’t have to ask me twice. I could not say “YES” fast enough.

View of the Classroom from the Wat Preah Prom Rath Grounds
View of the Classroom from the Wat Preah Prom Rath Grounds

Before I knew it, I was in a class. Room was full of people who were giving away surprised looks, but the overall feel was that I was welcome. I tried to introduce myself but probably sounded a bit awkward. There were both monks and non monks among students. Before I could get down to anything, a teacher walked in.

The classroom had no doors and no windows, just holes in the wall. The building in which the lectures were held was old, walls on it were mouldy and paint was peeling off. It offered striking contrast to shiny gloss of the temples across the walkway from there.

This Small Building in Bad Condition Serves as English School at Wat Pream Prom Rath
This Small Building in Bad Condition Serves as English School at Wat Pream Prom Rath

The teacher was a monk who spoke great English. I’m guessing he spent some time in England as he bore accent affected by the British. I introduced myself to him, after which he introduced me to the class and told me he had a bit of a sore throat and asked me if I could lead the class on my own. I have picked up his TOEFL book, got to a page where they were and without any ado I got straight down to teaching.

It was amazing. The class was at first a bit reluctant but I poked a funny here and there which eased the mood and so the lecture went like on grease. I enjoyed it so much I could not believe when an hour went by and everyone started leaving to attend to their other duties. My first English class as a volunteer was awesome. Everything about it was awesome. I have enjoyed it thoroughly and could not wait for the following day to do the same thing over again. As I was suggested, they held the same class every day during the week between 5 and 6, except on weekend. This was Tuesday – my first day in Cambodia and I have already taught English. What an amazing start to my new life.

Wat Preah Prom Rath Temple in Siem Reap Photo Gallery

Photographing Wat Preah Prom Rath Temple Compound

Now that I somewhat knew the history of the Wat Preah Prom Rath temple and Reclining Buddha which lies within, I felt encouraged to enjoy the grounds of the temple and photograph surrounding decoration. Replica of the ship on which Preah Ang Chang-han Hoy was sailing when it was cut in half by a shark is outside along with statue of the monk carrying a bowl for food. Cannons from the times of warlord Dap Chhoun are out there too. Garden is nicely trimmed and maintained and lots of other, smaller items are randomly scattered around the Wat Preah Prom Rath temple.

Preah Ang Chang-han Hoy Replica Ship
Preah Ang Chang-han Hoy Replica Ship

One especially impressive part were the architectural monuments of (to me) unknown purpose. I had no idea what they were, but these were structures of various sizes which grow up high into a spike in a pyramid like fashion. They all bear Oriental, rather than Egyptian influence and are found throughout the temple grounds. One big one is right next to the temple, several smaller ones of various sizes and splendour are around it.

Large Monument at Temple Grounds of Unknown Purpose (for now)
Large Monument at Temple Grounds of Unknown Purpose (for now)

It was when I went to photograph this large piece when someone yelled at me: “What are you doing there?” – this scared the living poop out of me. Not literally, but I thought it would have been a question of time before I offend somebody by me presence at holy Buddhist ground. This momet as it seemed had just arrived.

I have half smiling, half sorry answered that I just wanted to take a picture and backed off of the monument. The boy who yelled at me give off wide beaming smile suggesting that he was just kidding
which made me feel a little easier, but still a bit tense as I truly didn’t know what is right and what is wrong at temple grounds.

I shut my camera down, put it in a bag and went to talk to him to hopefully explain that I didn’t mean no harm, I just didn’t know what the right thing to do was. It was unnecessary. He asked me where I was from and the conversation went from there. Turned out that photographing temple compounds is perfectly fine and as I have later learned, Khmer people are excessively tolerant of tourists, even if they offend their holy grounds. The debate with this young boy went on. Either way, I was soaked in sweat already and needed a break from the heat and this gave me good excuse. Putting the camera down and going to take a seat at one of many benches was a relief. Little did I know at the time that talking to this young man will lead me to the most exciting experience ever. I went to teach monks English at upcoming class right there at the Wat Preah Prom Rath temple.

View of the Wat Preah Prom Roth from the Walkway Around the Temple
View of the Wat Preah Prom Roth from the Walkway Around the Temple

Reclining Buddha at Wat Preah Ang Chong-han Hoy Temple

When I was taken to the back of the Temple, I was offered a sight of large Reclining Buddha. The statue of Reclining Buddha is about 4 or 5 meters long. In other words it’s impressively massive. I would not have seen it had that guy not taken me there. I thought the statue of sitting Buddha in the middle of temple was like an altar in Catholic churches. And most of the time it truly is that way. Large statue of Buddha is situation center stage within a temple, surrounded by various decoration pieces, often times including smaller statues of Buddha, candles, and other religious items. It was no different in Wat Preah Prom Rath Temple, but there was yet another Buddha inside there – a Reclining one.

Picture of Reclining Buddha at Wat Preah Ang Chong-han Hoy Temple
Picture of Reclining Buddha at Wat Preah Ang Chong-han Hoy Temple

I have quietly snapped a few pictures of difficult to photograph Reclining Buddha (because of low light and large size). After I have walked out of the temple, I got a chance to read an information panel which explains the history behind Preah Ang Chong-han Hoy Temple (it’s what Wat Preah Prom Rath was once called) and Reclining Buddha. The sign reads the following:

History of Preah Ang Chong-han Hoy Inscription
History of Preah Ang Chong-han Hoy Inscription

History of Preah Ang Chong-han Hoy
BE 1900 – BE 2000 (1358 – 1456)

Replica of the boat and Preah Ang Chong-han Hoy (being warmed rice). This caused us to build this temple (Wat Preah Phrom Rath).

Upon times ago there was a monk named Preah Ang Chang-han Hoy who lived in a temple in Siem Reap city approximately in the late BE 1900 to the early BE 2000, Every morning he always travelled by boat crossing the Tonle-sap Lake to collect alms from Buddhists at Longwek Capital and returned to have lunch at his temple in Siem Reap city.

One day while he was travelling in the middle of the lake his boat was cut by shark: fortunately, it was not sunk but separated into two parts. One part was at Wat Boribo in Boribo District, Kampong Chnang Province, other part was in Siem Reap province, now is at Wat Preah Prohm Rath. To learn that both pieces of boat were replaced the Buddhist statues, at Wat Boribo in Boribo District, Kampong Chnang Province is the standing Buddha, at Wat Preah Prohm Rath is the reclining Buddha. So far we still see them remain perfectly.

In the reign of king Ang Chan in the late 16 and the early 16 century initiated shrine hall and temple dedicating to Preah Ang Chang-han Hoy while he prayed for victory of the country in return.

A replica of his boat built in year 2007 by Most Ven, Tong Ton, Samanera Tong Teuom, fellow-monks and Buddhist laymen to reserve as the knowledge of culture, history and heritage for Khmer generations.

Even though English in this scripture is not perfect, sense can be made from what it’s meant to say. Afterall, my English sucks just as much and so far people have been able to make sense of my blabber. This was my encounter with Reclining Buddha of Wat Preah Ang Chong-han Hoy Temple. Spiritually uplifted, I was ready to leave the temple and face the heat of late afternoon sun.

Photo of Reclining Buddha from Opposite Angle Shows Temple Keeper who Took me to the Statue in the Background
Photo of Reclining Buddha from Opposite Angle Shows Temple Keeper who Took me to the Statue in the Background

Inside Wat Preah Prom Rath Temple

I had a walk around the Wat Preah Prom Rath compound and went to take a peek through the gate that served as doorway to the main temple. The Wat Preah Prom Rath Temple is surrounded by the wall with typical triangular roof. Right by the doorway there was a sign requesting all visitors to the temple to remove their footwear as sign of respect for Buddha who was housed inside. There was a name of the patron of the temple, but I didn’t memorize that.

I left my sandals by the entrance where several pairs of sandals from people who were already inside were placed. Through the gate I saw several people, all dressed in white shirts, sitting on the porch, chanting prayers aloud. Bare foot, but still outside, I was looking at them. I didn’t want to disturb their prayer but then one of the ladies who participated in praying looked over her shoulder and saw me standing at the gate. Continuing with her prayer, she swinged her head as if giving me a sign that it was OK to enter. Encouraged, I did.

Buddhists Praying at the Wat Preah Prom Rath Temple Seen Through the Gate
Buddhists Praying at the Wat Preah Prom Rath Temple Seen Through the Gate

Lady turned back to facing inwards and continued chanting her prayer in Khmer along with everybody else. From the inside, the walls surrounding the Wat Preah Prom Rath Temple had nice colourful relics all over it. I did not understand the motifs revealed, but it was all really pretty, very rich colors and 3 dimensional. I walked all the way around until I got back to the gate and was ready to walk outside.

The same lady who previously gave me the sign that it was OK to enter, looked at me again, smiled and gave me another sign encouraging me to walk inside the temple itself. I was within temple gates, but not inside the temple itself.

Colourful, 3 Dimensional Relics Around the Wall Surrounding the Wat Preah Prom Rath Temple
Colourful, 3 Dimensional Relics Around the Wall Surrounding the Wat Preah Prom Rath Temple

They were praying by the door which made it a bit difficult for me (I really didn’t want to disturb their prayer) but silently I sneaked by and walked straight inside. Unlike Catholic churches, Buddhist Temples are not so richly decorated inside. At least not those found in Cambodia. The inside was actually very modest, with hardly anything inside other than really dominant statue of Buddha sitting on a pedestal with his legs in yoga like position. Few unlit candles were in front of the statue and a ship like thing that was used to hold burning sticks. Pleasant smell of oriental burning stick was prevalent inside the temple.

Entering Wat Preah Prom Rath Temple was a powerful experience for me. I felt strongly spiritual and close to the higher being. I took the camera off my neck, took by sun glasses off top of my head, put it all aside, knelt before the statue and clasped by hands in prayer. As I was kneeling before Buddha, I thanked him for the gift of being here.

Main Statue of Buddha Inside the Wat Preah Prom Rath Temple
Main Statue of Buddha Inside the Wat Preah Prom Rath Temple

It was really hot inside. The temple had no windows so it was also rather dark. Air conditioning or anything of that sort is not used in temples. While obscurity added to the spirituality, heat was making it difficult for me. I felt thousands of sweat drops rolling down my back without break. Then someone else entered the temple.

I was still kneeling before the Buddha when a young Khmer male who I think was one of the people from the Wat Preah Prom Rath compound walked in. I stood up and he asked me if I saw the Reclining Buddha. I had no idea what he was talking about and then he took me to show me something behind the big Buddha statue.

Wat Preah Prom Rath Temple and Pagoda, Siem Reap, Cambodia

After I have passed the funeral procession that was walking down Pokambor Avenue in Siem Reap, I headed straight north up the avenue, along the Siem Reap River until I got to a bridge which continues as Street 23 on the east side. The bridge was unlike others I have seen in Siem Reap – it looked well maintained, brightly painted with undamaged decorations containing Buddhist symbols. West side of the bridge had a large gate which nicely supplemented the splendour of the gate at the opposite side of the road – the gate to Wat Preah Prom Rath Temple and Pagoda, the largest and most astounding pagoda located directly in Siem Reap town, Cambodia.

Colorful Settings of Wat Preah Prom Rath Temple and Pagoda in Siem Reap
Colorful Settings of Wat Preah Prom Rath Temple and Pagoda in Siem Reap

Even though Wat Preah Prom Rath is nothing special when it comes to pagodas, I was attracted to it and found it jaw dropping as it was the first real deal pagoda of this sort I have ever seen. The gate was open and there were people inside, yet I was reluctant to enter. Temples are obviously houses of worship for Buddhists of Cambodia and as many times before – I had no idea what proper etiquette in temples is. The last thing I wanted to do upon my first day in Cambodia is to offend the locals, who are said to be strongly spiritual, closely following the teachings of Buddha.

I stood by the gate, yet nobody seemed to mind my presence, so I allowed the temptation to prevail and stepped right inside the gated and fenced compound of Wat Preah Prom Rath. I was ready to bow down and apologize while pacing my sorry self out of there should I hear someone yelling at me for staining their holy temple with my unworthy presence. But it never happened.

Newly Restored University Building Within the Wat Preah Prom Rath Temple Grounds
Newly Restored University Building Within the Wat Preah Prom Rath Temple Grounds

Wat Preah Prom Rath is beautiful. Located within quite large area, there were several colourful, oriental looking buildings surrounded by lush, well maintained gardens with palm trees and decorative statues. Several benches placed alongside walkways offer resting spots for weary bodies, while temple itself offers soothing for bothered souls.

As foreigner and obviously Caucasian, I stood out like a sore thumb again, but not only have my presence not bother anyone, many locals, including countless monks offered their greetings and smile to me. It made me feel very welcome and shook off my initial uneasiness as I was uncertain whether entering temples was allowed for the likes of me or not.

I spent a lot of time in the Wat Preah Prom Rath compound and for a moment it became my second home. I grew appreciative of the Buddhists and aside from becoming more spiritual, Wat Preah Prom Rath was also a sanctuary for me as a tourist where I would not be bombarded by money hungry Tuk Tuk drivers and the likes. Wat Preah Prom Rath was a whole different world within Siem Reap, which is otherwise extremely hostile towards tourists giving out strong impression that everyone is after your money, whatever it takes. You are constantly jumped and harassed by just about everyone – straight in your face and never taking “NO” for answer. But these people seem to not exist in Wat Preah Prom Rath – or perhaps they simply respect the pagoda as a holy ground where abuse would surely bring upon bad karma.

Silhouettes of Wat Preah Prom Rath Against Cloudy Skies
Silhouettes of Wat Preah Prom Rath Against Cloudy Skies

History of Wat Preah Prom Rath

While Wat Preah Prom Rath is vastly unspectacular as far as the looks and age are concerned, it is spectacular as far as location goes. Located right in the center of Siem Reap and right by the river, Wat Preah Prom Rath gets far more attention than any other temple or pagoda in Siem Reap.

Wat Preah Prom Rath was founded in 1915 making it one of the younger pagodas in Cambodia. The construction of main vihear was finished in 1945 and today proudly hosts larger than life statue of reclining Buddha. Within the grounds of Wat Preah Prom Rath there are also two cannons which are said to have belonged to famous Cambodian warlord Dap Chhoun.

One of the Cannons that Belonged to Cambodian Warlord Dap Chhoun
One of the Cannons that Belonged to Cambodian Warlord Dap Chhoun

Buddhist Funeral Procession Photo Gallery